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Heritage Himachal
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Set high where they lord over the surrounding
countryside, or tucked in wooded nooks, or placed by elegant
promenades, Himachal has an enormous range of Heritage properties. These range
from ancient forts that breathe of a tumultuous past, colonial mansions that
speak of an age of leisure and graciousness. There are palaces that belong to a
time when opulence marked the lifestyles of India's princes - and there are
century old hotels that are maintained in a pristine glory, which have been
painstakingly restored.
This spectrum offers a range of decor and
ambience - and a richly varied experience. From time-worn battlements, where the
very stones speak of glory and courage, you can move to a lush countryside and
savor the traditions of 'haveli' life. Just as easily, you can slip into
distinctive mansions where time seems to have stood still for decades and where
an easy elegance wafts under the watchful weave of priceless tapestries. Then
there are hotels that justly pride themselves for years of tradition and service
and whose guest-list reads like an international who's who.
With nostalgia and comfort skillfully
interlaced, here is a window that invites you to share a bygone era and hold its
enduring charms.
ALPINE HERITAGE
INN, SHIMLA:
Restored and modified, this is a
colonial bungalow that has a considerable measure of the character that marked
Shimla's architecture. Period furniture and artifacts have been tastefully
blended with modern facilities.
CHAPSLEE,
SHIMLA:With the comfortable elegance of an English country manor,
Chapslee was originally built in 1835. With
major refurbishing done at the turn of the century, Chapslee has a magnificent
interior with priceless artifacts. Ornate brass beds, Belgian chandeliers,
drapes from the Doge's palace in Venice, delft tiled fireplaces and exquisite
rugs, all combine to evoke the heyday of another age. Even the Burma teak used
in the paneling, belongs to the same shipment that was used for the interior of
the Viceregal Lodge at Shimla. In time, Chapslee became the property of Raja
Charanjit Singh of Kapurthala, whose descendants now run it as a select
hotel.
MADAN
KUNJ, SHIMLA:Once called Khud Cottage, this colonial cottage in western
Shimla, has a
flavour of the past. During World War II, when Burma was under Japanese
occupation, this was the summer residence of the Governor of Burma.
THE OBEROI
CLARKES, :Towards the eastern end of Shimla's Mall, where the row of
shops ends, is the Clarkes. Its neat Tudor- framed structure with window boxes,
started life in the early part of the 20th century as the Carlton. In the 1920s,
the hotel was taken over by Ernest Clarke and named after him. While over the
years, major modifications have gone into the structure, it retains the
character and warmth of an English country inn.
WOODVILLE PALACE
HOTEL, SHIMLA:Backed by a hillside covered with trees of tall Himalayan cedar
- the fabled 'deodar' - Woodville is a stately art-deco mansion. From 1865 to 1881, the site
held the residence of the British Commander-in-Chief of the Indian army. In
1938, Raja Sir Bhagat Chandra of Jubbal, had the old house removed and in its
place, the present structure was created by a body of Pathan and Chinese
workmen. The terraced lawns and a facade bearded with trimmed Virginia vines, is
complemented by an evocative interior - complete with select objets d' art,
hunting trophies and even signed photographs of Hollywood's 'golden age' stars.
HOTEL SPRINGFIELD, SHIMLA:Towards Shimla's eastern section called
'Chhotta' - small - Shimla, is this refurbished bungalow. With an excellent view of the peak of
'Choor Chandni' - that poetically translates as 'the mountain of the silver
bangle', Springfield was the residence of the former chiefs of Sheikupura.
THE CECIL,
SHIMLA:In the last quarter of the 19th century, at the site of the
Cecil - towards the western stretch of Shimla's elegant Mall - stood the small
'Tendril Cottage'. Its most famous occupant
for a 'season' in 1885, was the writer Rudyard Kipling. The estate went on to
provide the location of the Cecil - which since its creation in 1902, has been a
major focus of Shimla's social life. As a guest clerk, it was here that the
well-known hotelier, M.S. Oberoi started his remarkable career. The hotel which
has hosted variety of dignitaries over the years, has recently been exhaustively
renovated. Warm woodwork is set-off by elegant furniture and furnishings. There
is a full range of suites, rooms and facilities that are comparable with the
best in the world. The hotel has the coveted classification of 'Heritage
Grand'.
PALACE HOTEL,
CHAIL, SOLAN:The little 'hill station' of Chail came into being when
Bhupinder Singh, Maharaja of Patiala
was banished from Shimla, the 'summer capital' of British India, after a
dalliance with the Commander-in-Chief's daughter in the late 19th century.
Facing Shimla-at Chail-the smarting Maharaja decided to build his own 'summer
capital'. A splendid mansion surrounded by picturesque cottages, soon took
shape. Chail is encircled by forests of 'deodar'—Himalayan cedar-trees and has
splendid views on all sides. In 1972, the property set in about 75 acres of
land—including orchards, tennis courts and cottages—passed into the hands of
Himachal Tourism, and is now run as a popular Heritage Hotel and a full-fleged
destination resort.
FORT RESORT,
NALAGARH, SOLAN:Strategically placed at the foothills of the Himalayas, Nalagarh was
the capital of the state of Hindur. This area witnessed some fierce fighting
during the 'Gurkha Wars' in the first quarter of the 19th century. Spread over
considerable acreage, the fort and the palace of Nalagarh have a series of
structures that are mostly built in the Mughal style of architecture. These have
been exhaustively renovated and are now a quality heritage resort.
HOTEL ROS COMMON
AND THE HOTEL ALASIA, KASAULI, SOLAN: The small town of Kasauli has an enormous amount of
'character'. Attractive cottages with gables set in neat gardens, narrow cobbled
paths shaded by oak. pine and massive horse- chestnut trees, make it
picture-perfect. In this quaint town, are two properties that hold considerable
measure of what is nostalgically called 'old world charm'. Himachal Tourism's
Hotel Ros Common is a modified bungalow, while the Alasia dates back several
decades as a hotel.
RAJMAHAL PALACE
HOTEL, MANDI:A manor built in the colonial style-and still owned by the
former ruling house of Mandi the hotel lies partially concealed from view by
other buildings. With corridors lined with arms and portraits, its interior
echoes another age. Striking pieces of ornate furniture appear at every turn and
fill every nook and corner of the palace.
HOTEL CASTLE,
NAGGAR, KULLU:With hewn stone neatly packed in a horizontal mesh of timber
sleepers, this medieval castle
was built by Raja Sidh Singh of Kullu around 1460. Perched high on a cliff, this
was the stronghold of the rulers of Kullu for over two centuries till they moved
down the valley. The hotel overlooks the Kullu valley and apart from the
spectacular view and superb locale, this has the flavour of authentic western
Himalayan architecture.
TARAGARH PALACE
HOTEL, TARAGARH, PALAMPUR, KANGRA:
Low rolling hills criss-crossed by narrow fast-flowing streams,
scores of tiny hamlets, lush tea
gardens and paddy fields - with the backdrop of the majestic Dhauladhar
mountains - all combine to make Kangra one of Himachal's most beautiful tracts.
Here, built in 1931, by the 27 year old ruler of Bahawalpur, Nawab Sadiq
Mohammed Khan Bahadur is Al Hilal-'the Land of the Crescent Moon'. Now called
Taragarh after Maharani Tara Devi, of the princely state of Jammu and Kashmir,
who became its subsequent owner, this is a splendid art-deco mansion set amidst
large grounds. Memorabilia of past adorns its elegantly appointed rooms while
the grounds host a 'jungle camp'.
HOTEL
MOUNTVIEW,
HOTEL GEETANJALI, HOTEL GRANDVIEW, HOTEL AROMA'N' CLAIRE AND SILVERTON,
DALHOUSIE, CHAMBA:The town of Dalhousie swings around the hills like a figure of
eight. Along its roads andpaths
are a variety of trees — pine, oak and rhododendron. And nestling among them,
are examples of fine colonial architecture. Having become popular in the 'second
string' of hill stations that the British built in the 19th century, Dalhousie
is still a popular holiday destination. Hotel Geetanjali is run by Himachal
Tourism, while Mountview, Grandview, Silverton and the Aroma'n' Claire are in
the private sector. All date back several years and have a long tradition of
hospitality. Built in 1939, Silverton is a modified bungalow in the heritage
tradition, and is run as an exclusive guest house.
CLOUD'S END VILLA, DHARAMSALA, KANGRA:Placed in the upper reaches of the town - and with a
spectacular view that encompasses the hills and allows an unimpaired look
towards the plains, this is an attractive villa. With gracious hospitality, this
is run by the erstwhile ruling house of Kangra. The grounds have a 'Shikar
Camp'.
THE JUDGE'S COURT,
PRAGPUR, KANGRA:The little village of Pragpur in Kangra's sylvan tracts, has an
endearing beauty. Narrow cobbled
lanes flow past old houses, and flowering Bougainvillaea drape their colours
over pipul and banyan trees. And to the north, the snow clad Dhauladhar ranges
frame this picture of pastoral beauty. Completed in 1918, the Judge's Court
stands in a large orchard and here, the area's rural life goes easily by. Built
in the 'haveli' style, but with a largely European floor plan, the house has
been meticulously restored. Just a stone's throw away, is the 300 year old
ancestral home that also offers the Court's hospitality.
OTHER HERITAGE PROPERTIES:ARKI FORT,
ARKI, SOLAN Once the capital
of the princely state of Baghal, Arki has witnessed a good measure of turbulence
in this area. Arki became the stronghold of an invading force of Gurkhas during
the 'Gurkha Wars' that came to an end in 1815-16. About 1850, Raja Kishen Chand
had the fort decorated with fine murals executed in the Pahari style. Here is a
place packed with history and adomed with fine art.
DAOJIDHAAR, MASHOBRA, SHIMLA:Quite different from the other heritage places, this is a rural
Himachali house that has been modified to accommodate a more modern lifestyle.
This is set in a large acreage, surrounded by forests - and has a stunning view
of the valleys and mountains.
SUJANPUR FORT,
DISTRICT HAMIRPUR AND
THE LAMBAGRAON PALACE, DISTRICT KANGRA:Close to
the district border of Kangra, is the fort of Sujanpur. Popularly known
alongwith its twin title 'Tira', this was built by Raja Abhaya Chand of Kangra
in 1758. In the early nineteenth century this was the home of the famous Raja
Sansar Chand - renownded patron of the Kangra school of miniature paintings. The
fort has a Barahdari Hall', where Sansar Chand used to hold court, some shrines
and excellent wall paintings. With the rise of British power in the area,
Lambagraon (Lambagaon) became the 'Jagir' village of the Kangra family. By the
waters of the Beas, this has a charming setting and the river stretch offers
good fishing.
KUTHAR FORT,
KUTHAR, DISTRICT SOLAN:Within a short driving distance of both Arki and Subathu - and
barely an hour away from the Jubbarhatti (Shimla) airport - is the fort of
Kuthar. Its oldest sections are 800 years old while the most recent structures
are barely eight decades old. This is spread over a large area and fresh-water
springs flow within its confines. Close-by are several scenic attractions like
Kunihar, the Gurkha fort of Subathu and the hill station of Kasauli.
THE HOLME, SHIMLA:Perhaps a place with greater 'heritage' than many there,
situated, at Summerhill in Shimla. This colonial bungalow was the one-time
residence of the celebrated artist Amrita Sher-Gill where she painted.
A HERITAGE
MISCELLANY:Shimla, the state capital of Himachal Pradesh has some of the world's
finest examples of British-colonial architecture. There is the English
renaissance-inspired grey-stone former Viceregal Lodge (now the Indian Institute
of Advanced study), the neo-Gothic structures of the Gaiety Theatre and the
former Imperial Civil Secretariat (now the Accountant General's Office), The
Tudor-framed 'Barnes Court' (now the Raj Bhavan), the Vidhan Sabha and the
Secretariat of the Government of Himachal Pradesh. Colonial buildings can be
found elsewhere in the state, especially in the 'hill stations' of Kasauli and
Dalhousie.
In addition, there are forts, palaces,
temples, monasteries and residences that follow a much older tradition, to be
found all over the state. The thousand year old Buddhist monastery of Tabo in Spiti with its fine wall-paintings
and stucco statues has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The
village of Pragpur with its age-old and well preserved architecture and cobbled
streets has been declared a 'Heritage village'. Many of Himachal's forts,
palaces and residences are privately owned, and naturally, the discretion of
their use rests with their owners. Yet, we are proud to have them as a part of
our rich heritage. Some remarkable places within or easily accessible from the
main holiday stations are - Padam Palace, Rampur, The Palace Sarahan, Jandrighat
Dalhousie, The Palace, Jubbal. The Palace, Sunni. The Palace, Nahan. Many
traditional farmhouses all over Himachal, are also making accommodation
available on their premises. These will provide visitors an insight into local
lifestyles, cuisine and culture.
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