Perched on the upper slopes of the Rathore Valley, Yoksom (5950 ft.), a lesser known hamlet in the Himalaya was once the capital of Sikkim during the rule of its first ‘Chogyal’ king.Sikkim, or Denzong (valley rice) as it was known earlier, remained unknown to the world till the 8^th century A.D. Until Tibetan traders and herdsmen while travelling across the Sakya Kingdom lost their way and accidentally stumbled upon this unique land Lepcha tribes under the Lepcha chieftains were the original inhabitants. This accidental discovery actually paved the way for trade links between the Tibetans and the Lepcha class. History before the 13^th century A.D. is not well documented but it is said that rifts between the Yellow Hat Sect and the Red Hat Sect of Buddhists in Tibet had led to the followers of the latter to fleeing southwards in search of a new home.

When European settlers were busy setting up colonies on the shores of the Indian subcontinent, history of other sorts was in the making in Denzong.

Sometime in the early 17^th century three Lamas – Lama Latsun Chembo, Lama Sempa Chembo and Lama Rinzing Chembo, of the Red Hat Sect (Drukpa), driven by the ‘divine mission’ to unite the disintegrating Lepcha clans and establish a Buddhist monarchy in this hidden land, set on foot from Tibet in search of a man called Phunstok who was the great grandson of Guru Tashi. Travelling in three different directions they met at a place called Norbugang (in Yoksom); the place was later renamed as ‘Yoksom’ meaning the meeting place of three Lamas. Their long search ended in 1642 A.D. when Phunstok along with his family and followers were traced and escorted to Yoksom. In the same year he was consecrated as the first king of Sikkim with the title ‘Chogyal’ (meaning the king who rules with righteousness) and the surname ‘Namgyal’. It was also then that Sikkim derived its name from ‘Su- khim’ meaning ‘New Home’. Thus for the first time the entire Lepcha clan was brought into the Buddhist fold under the auspices of their first Chogyal. And Yoksom was made the capital of this Himalayan kingdom. The first Buddhist monastery was built on a hilltop near Yoksom sometime in the 1650s during the reign of Chogyal Phunstok Namgyal. This was named the Dubdi Gompa. Believed to be the oldest existing Gompa of Sikkim, what remains now of this monastery are five chortens which still stand in testimony of centuries-old tales of the Lepchas and their hidden land.

Yoksom is tucked away in the southern fringes of the Khangohendzonga sanctuary. The last motorable town is West Sikkim. The shortest route from Siliguri is via Jorethang (five hours from Siliguri) and from Jorethang the road meanders alongside the Rangit river, flirting and chasing the turbulent river upstream till Legship (26 km from Jorethang). From Legship the road follows the Rathong river for another 48 km drive up the Rathong valley via Tashiding. A very interesting journey indeed through virgin tropical rain forests, gurgling rivulets, serene terraces, and more……..

Yoksom looks like a step-cut green meadow in the midst of the surrounding forests. The greens, the yellows and the browns dominate the landscape against the blue-gray backdrop of the sky. Taking a casual walk early in the foglit morning past the village huts lying scattered here, there, up and beyond in clusters of fives and tens, decrepit but colourful; somewhere up in the woods flocks of puny birds flying by singing heavenly notes; the smell of burning firewood – all will haunt your memories for years to come. Yoksom smells of wild cardamom. And of Tongba the local specially brew from millet. The best available in entire Sikkim.

Local population is nearly five hundred – mostly farmers and labourers. Few traders have also settled here in recent years. There are seven groceries, a few eateries, five trekkers huts and a few hotels (notably Hotel Dzongri La and Hotel Tashigang).

Few more are expected to come up by the turn of this season. And, thanks to the local authorities and the people of this hamlet, Yoksom remains clean as ever despite a steadily increasing traffic of tourists. What also deserves special mention is an association called ‘Himalayan Bio-diversity and Eco-study Group’, a voluntary association of young students formed in 1992, which is carrying out commendable work towards preserving the environment in the area. Yoksom deserves the status of a Himalayan heritage site, they feel.

Yoksom is, beyond doubt, historically important to the people of Sikkim. This hamlet will soon become a more popular destination of tourists and nature lovers, if recent trends are any indication.